Hello Siam Reap!
Room with a view.
A five and a half hour journey up to Siam Reap was pretty tough going as we were travelling with just about the whole population of Phnom Penh. Getting home for the 3 day public holiday was everyone’s priority. There is little to no public transport network in Cambodia so the roads were rammed with every type of vehicle, with as many people on board as is physically possible.
When we did finally arrive I was shocked. Siam Reap appears to be a lack lustre town that is completely dead beat. Many hotels and shops are vacant. Not helped by the gigantic Tourist Village and other huge complexes outside the centre. They are near the Angkor complex which means the money is being taken out of the city and it shows. Its saving grace for us was the lovely food we ate. Luckily we were able to avoid Pub Street in all its glory as it was closed for the public holiday.
Angkor Thom is the place to visit, it’s the reason to come to Siam Reap. I don’t think you would come here for any other reason.
We first had to buy tickets in a process which was not dissimilar to checking in for an international flight in its surroundings and hordes of uniformed staff. With a very expensive ticket in hand, we headed out to the Angkor Wat complex judging by the ticket carpark we were well ahead of any crowds, or so we thought.
Our first view of Angkor Wat is very impressive but of course we didnt beat the crowds - thousands of people marching, gathering, jostling for the best spot to capture a photo. It was in fact the public holiday for the ancestors festival as well as a 10 year anniversary of the death of their old king - we couldn’t have chosen a busier time. Oh yes we could - sunset or sunrise.
See the five looming towers of Angkor Wat silhouetted in the distance shows how huge this complex is.
As we entered over the moat, the inner area really is stunning with beautiful reflections and complex carvings.
Angkor Wat and the surrounding temple ruins are evidence of a powerful empire that flourished here a thousand years ago. This country has seen so much destruction since then.
The temples have incredibly steep flights of narrow stairs leading up to the top. The purpose of these stairs is to force worshipers to crawl upwards, belittling themselves before Buddha.
Once inside the Wat, the enormous and impressive frieze shows a battle between the gods and demons. The Temple was originally Hindu and when it converted to Buddhism in the 1600s the monks marked the change by painting red Buddhist robes on all the statues and carved figures - some of which are still visible. The Khmer Rouge on the other hand contributed to the decoration with deep bullet holes.
Monks were available to receive a blessing for Pchum Ben
Hiring costumes and dressing up are definitely a major part of sight-seeing in Asia.
Ta Prohm was our final part of the days visit. This well known Tomb Raider Temple has been swallowed by the jungle’s huge gnarled roots.
UNESCO have stepped in and various supports and walkways have been erected. Many roots have been cleared. It looks like a stage set - perfect for selfies.
It’s an incredible site to visit but having been cleared has meant it now looks almost contrived in its neatness.
Again, the hordes of visitors and tour groups meant that there were literally queues for photos at the many photogenic spots. To be fair I do get that, but it’s the endless selfie photoshoots that get me, everyone has to wait for each photoshoot to end before one can inch further forward. These shoots now involve costumes and props so are getting longer and more involved.
The jungle has been pegged back with only the large tree roots left. The colours in the walls are beautiful and the softwood roots have a silver shimmer. There are moments when It is quite an enchanting, unique experience.
Trees, hundreds of years old, tower overhead, their leaves filtering the sunlight and casting a greenish veil over the whole scene.
Such a lot of ground to cover in one day, a one day pass is asking a lot. A massage was gratefully received once we returned to our hotel, followed by a Khmer Curry.